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Arnaud Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 2017
RedFrance2017
By Daniel Min · Tasted 2020-01-16 · Published 2026-09-17 · Updated 2026-09-17
At a glance
In one line
4.0/5 — lower than Vivino's 4.3 average · world avg price US$115 · Arnaud Mortet inherited the family domaine at 24 after his father Denis Mortet's sudden death in 2006, then in 2016 started a separate négociant label with his sister Clémence.
One critic score on Vivino — (87-89), normalized to 89 (Jan 2019, publication not named). Separately, wine.com cites a 93 from Wine Spectator, describing it as "supple and harmonious" with "cherry and plum fruit, accented by spice flavors" and a "mineral-tinged aftertaste."
Market note: The "Arnaud Mortet" label is a separate legal entity from his father's "Domaine Denis Mortet": in 2016 a retiring grower transferred 4 hectares — fifty-year-old village vines plus some 1er and Grand Cru parcels — to Arnaud and his sister Clémence, who launched this independent négociant project on that land. Wine.com listed this 2017 vintage at a regular US$110, discounted to US$89.99, but it is now out of stock (checked Sept 2026).
Father's note — Daniel Min
Original author of the notes“Double magnum. Good quality bourgogne. Raspberry, red fruit, cherry, strawberry.”
What I learned today: one way to carry on what you inherit is to take a step back.
Wednesday, from six-thirty the phone rang three times. All year-end bookings. Master Seo handed the phone to me and went on polishing glasses. The third caller said a party of ten. Then asked, "Do you have big bottles too?" Master Seo set down the empty glass he was polishing and gave a single nod. In the corner of my notebook I wrote the date, the headcount, and "big bottle."
When I hung up, he slid a pale ruby glass over. Raspberry, strawberry, cherry. Red fruit rose all at once, bright. Like opening a box of strawberries in the middle of winter.
A scent I've smelled once takes me back to its day. Deep winter when I was twenty-one, a Thursday night after an early sunset. That night the bottles came to the kitchen table one after another, and I counted them in my head. The first, with bubbles rising. The second, longer than my forearm. And a third just as big. The red glass came from that third bottle in its cloth. "The third already?" Father filled my glass and said only, "Slowly." I don't know the bottle's name.
The notebook is short: "Double magnum. Good quality bourgogne." Then four red fruits. Brief praise, the way Father gave it.
Afterwards Master Seo told me about the man who made this bottle. A son who inherited the vineyards with no time to prepare, after his father left suddenly. I looked only at my glass for a long while. After Father left, the first thing I did was copy out his notes. That son, they say, didn't carry his father's way over unchanged; he took one step back. What I learned today: one way to carry on what you inherit is to take a step back.
What this wine is
Arnaud Mortet began working the vineyards alongside his father Denis Mortet in 2000, learning winemaking directly from him. On 30 January 2006, Denis died suddenly at 51, and Arnaud took over the entire family domaine at just 24 — a succession with no time to prepare for. Denis Mortet, a perfectionist influenced by Henri Jayer, was known for a philosophy of "concentrated, powerful wines" and ranked among Gevrey-Chambertin's leading producers. Arnaud has kept his father's core principles — consideration for the soil, for the grapes on the vine and in the cellar, and a commitment to fruit-driven depth — while adding his own techniques: hand-trimming the vines and using whole-bunch fermentation for a silkier texture.
The "Arnaud Mortet" label itself is a separate entity from his father's domaine, Domaine Denis Mortet. In 2016, a retiring grower transferred 4 hectares — fifty-year-old village vines plus some Premier and Grand Cru parcels — to Arnaud and his sister Clémence, and the two built an independent négociant project on that foundation. Arnaud has said he's deliberately more cautious with new oak and whole-bunch use in this young label's early vintages — a step back from simply transplanting the Domaine Denis Mortet style, until the vines find their own maturity.
What the world says
This 2017 vintage has been rated by 229 people on Vivino, averaging 4.3 — slightly below the 4.4 average across all 631 ratings for the label. One critic score is on file, (87-89), normalized to 89 (Jan 2019), and wine.com separately cites a 93 from Wine Spectator, describing it as "supple and harmonious" with "cherry and plum fruit, accented by spice flavors" and a "mineral-tinged aftertaste."
The flavor keywords lead with red fruit, cherry and strawberry (57 mentions), followed by earthy and leather notes (35) and tobacco and oak (22). Structure: acidity a pronounced 4.1/5, intensity 3.2, tannin a moderate 2.5.
"93/100 Very good!! Floral expressive aroma bouquet. Very pretty fruits and herbs — red fruit, cherry, strawberry, raspberry, prune, red currant, earthy, leather, mushroom, licorice, cinnamon, mint, rhubarb, violet perfume." — Vivino review, Sep 2024, 4.3 stars
"Forest floor and mushroom upfront, then it came wild red berries. Just picture a scene, you walking into a large grass field with berries everywhere, the smell of gentle wind blowing on your face. Persistent beautiful acid as the backbone for the flavour." — Vivino review, Jan 2022, 4.5 stars
The recommended drinking window is 2022-2032, and I opened this bottle in January 2020, about two years before that window even started.
How I drank it
16 January 2020, 4 stars. "Double magnum. Good quality bourgogne. Raspberry, red fruit, cherry, strawberry." Short and to the point.
That same day, this was the third bottle in a run of double magnums: Louis Roederer Brut Premier (4), Martelet de Cherisey Hameau de Blagny (4.5), then this Arnaud Mortet (4), and finally Vieux Château Gaubert Graves Rouge 1999 (2.5). Notably, nothing in the note reads as a complaint even though I drank it two years before its recommended window (2022-2032) even opens. My note's "raspberry, red fruit, cherry, strawberry" maps almost exactly onto the top-ranked flavor group in the Vivino data — "red fruit" at 57 mentions, led by red fruit, cherry, strawberry and raspberry in that order — meaning I landed squarely on this wine's most consistent character. Scoring it 4, essentially matching the community average of 4.3, also lines up with a plain, accurate read: "good quality bourgogne."
Vivino community data
2017 vintage rating distribution (229 ratings, average 4.3)
| 5★ | 41 (18%) | |
| 4★ | 169 (74%) | |
| 3★ | 13 (6%) | |
| 2★ | 4 (2%) | |
| 1★ | 2 (1%) |
Most-mentioned aromas
| Family | Mentions | Top keywords |
|---|---|---|
| Red fruit | 57 | red fruit 20 · cherry 16 · strawberry 11 · raspberry 6 · red cherry 3 |
| Earth | 35 | earthy 14 · leather 8 · mushroom 6 · smoke 3 · ash 1 |
| Oak | 22 | tobacco 9 · oak 7 · vanilla 4 · cigar 1 · clove 1 |
| Black fruit | 8 | black fruit 3 · black cherry 1 · blackberry 1 · blackcurrant 1 · mulberry 1 |
| Vegetal | 4 | grass 2 · rhubarb 1 · tomato 1 |
| Spice | 3 | cinnamon 1 · licorice 1 · mint 1 |
| Yeast & cream | 3 | cheese 2 · cream 1 |
Structure: Acidity 4.1/5 · Intensity 3.2/5 · Tannin 2.5/5 · Sweetness 1.9/5
Average by vintage (all vintages: 631 ratings, average 4.4)
| Vintage | Average | Ratings |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 | 4.5 | 32 |
| 2019 | 4.4 | 46 |
| 2018 | 4.4 | 105 |
| 2017 | 4.3 | 229 |
| 2016 | 4.3 | 116 |
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→Frequently asked questions
What kind of wine is Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2017?
A village-level Gevrey-Chambertin red from Burgundy's Côte de Nuits, made from 100% Pinot Noir. Vivino: 229 ratings averaging 4.3, with a Vivino critic score of (87-89) and a separately confirmed 93 from Wine Spectator. Recommended drinking window: 2022-2032.
How much does it cost?
The world average price is US$115 per 750ml ex-tax (Wine-Searcher, Sept 2026) (Wine-Searcher, pending). Wine.com listed it at a regular US$110, discounted to US$89.99, but it is now out of stock (checked Sept 2026).
What food pairs well with it?
Vivino users suggest beef, veal, poultry and game. With a moderate tannin of 2.5 and pronounced acidity, it pairs especially well with duck breast or lightly seared beef.
Is Arnaud Mortet the same winery as Domaine Denis Mortet?
Same family, different legal entity. Arnaud inherited the family domaine, Domaine Denis Mortet, in 2006 after his father's sudden death. The "Arnaud Mortet" label is a separate, independent négociant project he started with his sister Clémence in 2016, on 4 newly acquired hectares.
Links & sources
View on Vivino · Prices on Wine-Searcher
- Vivino — wine page and community data
- Wine Spectator — Tragedy in Burgundy
- Domaine Denis Mortet official — Arnaud
- Berry Bros & Rudd — Arnaud Mortet producer profile
- wine.com — Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2017 product page
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Italy · Tuscany★★★★★Tasted the same dayDomaine Saint-Damien, Gigondas Vieilles Vignes 'La Louisiane' 2014
France · Rhône★★★½☆Tasted the same dayVieux Château Gaubert, Graves Rouge 1999
France · Bordeaux★★½☆☆Same producerArnaud Ente Bourgogne Chardonnay 2015
France · Burgundy★★★★½Similar styleDomaine de la Pinte Trousseau Arbois 2018
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